The biotechnology company located in the business area of the University of Valencia Science Park has just launched three innovative products aimed at caring for the skin microbiome
Elena Jiménez, a biologist experienced in clinical and pathological microbiology, teaching and training, auditing, quality and environment, is the founder of Helenis Biocosmetics, a biotechnology company located at the University of Valencia Science Park, an advanced biocosmetics brand focused on the research and development of personal hygiene and cosmetic products, focused on improving the most common skin conditions and imperfections, with prebiotic, pro and postbiotic microorganisms of natural origin.
Trained in Cosmetic Sciences at the Formula Botanica platform, a passion for microbiology and her interest in cosmetic formulation led Jimenez to embark on the sector in 2020, where she recognizes herself as passionate about traditional cosmetics used for decades by communities settled in different continents and fascinated by the process of creating and formulating products to develop innovative and effective formulas. "One of my medium-term goals, at the level of female entrepreneurship, is to mentor a community of motivated women and mothers to develop their own cosmetics, facilitating their labor inclusion." In parallel, she adds, she has always had a deep admiration for microbiology and its potential to transform different applications of science, including cosmetics. "It was then that I noticed that there was a significant niche in the market related to microbiome beauty. I realized that the application of microbiological principles to beauty was not only in its early stages, but also offered a great opportunity to innovate and offer truly differentiated products," she explains.
The company's market breakthroughs are making themselves felt. This business initiative has just launched its first three products: a bath gel and shampoo with microbial forest extract, a repairing facial cream with a glow effect and a firming serum with a lifting effect. "All are dermatologically tested on skin with atopic tendencies and act by correcting the skin's imbalance through biotechnological active ingredients capable of modulating the communities of microorganisms and treating them in a natural way," describes Jiménez, who highlights as an added value the use of natural cosmetics as an enhancer of the biotechnological active ingredients added to the products, in addition to replacing purified water with other aqueous ingredients of 100% natural origin such as hydrolates and other extracts.
- What is the state of the cosmetics industry based on microbiome studies?
- In recent years, as research reveals the crucial role of the skin microbiome in overall skin health, cosmetic and personal care brands are closely examining the effects of their products on the microbial community. In addition, the cosmetics industry is increasingly advancing the formulation of topical products that take into account the diversity and balance of the skin microbiome, using products that may contain prebiotics, ingredients fermented by specific bacteria that promote changes in the microbiota by increasing the release of bacterial metabolites that confer benefits; probiotics, live microorganisms (non-pathogenic, non-toxic) with the ability to survive in an area of your body long-term so that their beneficial properties can be used and confer protection against pathogenic microorganisms; or, with postbiotics, substances that the microorganisms produce such as metabolites, antioxidants, fatty acids... normally created by the skin microbiota itself. Also, much progress has been made in research on the relationship between the skin and gut microbiota (skin-gut axis). The latest research suggests a direct influence. Because of this, products have appeared that are taken orally "oral nutricosmetics" in the form of pre/pro and postbiotics. There are some probiotic strains that have been studied for some skin conditions, such as acne. However, more studies are needed to verify how these products targeting the gut microbiota are also able to modulate the skin microbiome.
In the field of R&D, innovation involves finding and validating ingredients of natural origin that are not only effective but also safe at the microbiota level. In addition, it is crucial to ensure the authenticity of natural ingredients so that the final product meets market expectations. Sustainability is an aspect that we cannot ignore
- What opportunities does the application of microbial population research to the industry represent?
- The application of microbial population research to the cosmetic sector presents a wide range of opportunities that are revolutionizing the industry. One of the most significant advances is the continued discovery of ingredients that have a direct influence on the skin microbiome, such as prebiotics and postbiotics, as well as other microbiome modulators. These ingredients can improve skin health by promoting a healthy balance of microorganisms, which can translate into more resilient, hydrated skin with fewer dermatological problems. For example, the case of the Malaspina expedition is a notable example of how research can have practical applications in cosmetics. Researchers on this expedition collected environmental samples from different marine ecosystems from which more than 120 unknown bacterial strains were isolated from different depths, salinities and oxygen levels, and their studies have made it possible to identify microorganisms and compounds that can be used in the formulation of cosmetic products. These discoveries have opened new avenues for the development of innovative ingredients that could improve skin health and appearance. This is an example of how new technologies for analyzing existing samples are enabling a more detailed assessment of their impact and application in the cosmetic field. In conclusion, research into microbial populations, supported by advanced technologies such as microbiome sequencing, is providing unprecedented opportunities in the development of more effective cosmetic products. The ability to understand and modulate the skin microbiome opens up a horizon of possibilities for improving skin health and meeting the demands of modern consumers.
Large corporations have the capacity to invest significantly in research and development, as well as extensive advertising campaigns. To overcome this, start-ups must focus their efforts on areas of innovation that the big brands have not yet explored. The key is to offer something distinctive, such as a unique formulation based on ingredients of natural origin, efficient and attractive (in terms of texture, fragrances, colors...), that can capture the interest of innovation-conscious consumers, without neglecting health and the environment
- What are the challenges of innovation in the design of cosmetic skin care products?
- Innovating in the design of cosmetic skin care products faces several challenges, especially when competing with large established brands such as Estée Lauder or L'Oréal, among others, that have vast resources, a robust infrastructure and a loyal customer base. These brands have a considerable advantage in terms of marketing and product development, which makes it essential for new companies to find differentiating strategies to stand out in the market. A key challenge is competing with these established brands. Large corporations have the capacity to invest significantly in research and development, as well as extensive advertising campaigns. To overcome this, start-ups must focus their efforts on areas of innovation that the big brands have not yet explored. The key is to offer something distinctive, such as a unique formulation based on ingredients of natural origin, efficient and attractive (in terms of texture, fragrances, colors...), that can capture the interest of innovation-conscious consumers, without neglecting health and the environment.
In the field of R&D, innovation involves finding and validating ingredients of natural origin that are not only effective but also safe at the microbiota level. In addition, it is crucial to ensure the authenticity of natural ingredients so that the final product meets market expectations. Sustainability is an aspect that we cannot ignore. We implement environmentally friendly production and packaging practices, giving preference to the use of biodegradable, recyclable or recycled packaging (such as sugar cane, glass...). Integrating ancestral ingredients or practices when developing products can offer a distinctive approach that stands out in the competitive marketplace, but requires careful research to adapt this knowledge to modern standards. At Helenis Biocosmetics, we wanted our consumers to see changes from the very first application. We have successfully achieved this by developing concentrated products, without compromising the delicate skin of people with atopic-prone skin, in order to enhance the active ingredients included in the formula. Overcoming these challenges involves investing heavily in research and development to find new formulations, ingredients and volunteers, as well as a clear focus on product differentiation through naturalness, sustainability and efficacy. Educating consumers about the benefits of these products on their microbiome and skin health, and maintaining transparent communication are also key to building loyalty and trust in a saturated market. With a well-defined strategy and a focus on innovation, it is possible to stand out and compete effectively in the cosmetics industry.
Integrating ancestral ingredients or practices when developing products can offer a distinctive approach that stands out in the competitive marketplace, but requires careful research to adapt this knowledge to modern standards
- What are your expectations for the future of both the company and the industry?
- My expectation for the company is that it will continue to establish itself as a leader in innovation within the cosmetics sector, especially in the field of the skin microbiome. I see great potential in developing products that not only address current consumer needs, but also anticipate and adapt to future market demands. There is a significant niche yet to be exploited in this field, given that many skin microbiome-focused products lack a high naturalness index, and their textures and perfumes often do not match the quality of conventional cosmetics of synthetic origin. An ambitious and crucial goal is the establishment of our own specialized microbiome laboratory, with live ex vivo human skin explants, to evaluate the efficacy of a formulation, active ingredient or device under conditions as close to reality as possible, since skin explants have normal morphology, physiology, structure, barrier and metabolism. In addition, the creation of our own pre/pro and postbiotics will offer an exclusivity that will strengthen our value proposition and allow advanced customization for each treatment (e.g. multi-pathologies), further differentiating us in the market. As for the industry in general, it must continue to evolve toward greater integration of innovative ingredients that address not only skin pathologies, but also their combination with related concerns such as loss of radiance, hydration and premature aging. The demand for more effective and personalized solutions is on the rise, and ongoing research will be key to developing treatments that truly make a difference in people's lives, improving their quality of life or self-perception. I hope that the industry will continue to drive research and development of new ingredients and technologies, favoring a holistic approach that combines efficacy with high naturalness and absolute respect for the health of the skin and its microbiome. Collaboration between companies, technology centers, researchers and consumers will be essential to advance along this path and offer cutting-edge solutions.